Hotel Review: Posada del León de Oro in Madrid

A remnant of old Madrid gets a super-sleek modern overhaul upstairs but wisely bows to tradition in its bustling tavern lobby, with rates from $165.

BASICS

A 19th-century posada, or inn, that was shuttered for a decade has been reborn after a modern face-lift that preserves the essence of Spanish hostelry in another era but adds a gloss of gleaming white paint and shiny stainless steel. The 17 rooms open onto a tiny corrala, a rustic atrium that was the heart of humble housing in Madrid for centuries. Since you can’t have an inn without a tavern, which in this case more or less occupies the entire ground level, the reception desk is just that — a desk — set amid the bustle of the bar and restaurant.

LOCATION

In the heart of the neighborhood of La Latina, on the Calle Cava Baja, as old an address as you can have in Madrid, hence the remains of Moorish and Christian walls hopscotching down the block. Today the street is lined with taverns and tapas bars — Saturdays and Sundays are buzzing from 2 p.m. to 2 a.m. Plaza Mayor , the Royal Palace and the Prado are all easy strolls away.

THE ROOM

The rooms are far bigger than you would expect from an inn that once put up horses as well as guests. For purists, the makeover may be too severe. With nearly blinding white walls adorned with purple lacquered panels and too many state-of-the-art light fixtures, my room, called a superior, felt as if it were trying too hard to escape its past. But it was comfortable, with a separate alcove for the king bed, and a small desk beneath a huge flat-screen television. There’s a Murphy double bed hidden in the wall of closets, so the room could actually sleep four. While chicly sculptural, the two stainless steel chairs did not invite actual sitting. The décor in other rooms — especially the top-floor suites with their exposed beams — was far warmer, though still updated with leather Eames-style loungers and colorful wallpapers. The rooms with balconies over Cava Baja are not for light sleepers.

THE BATHROOM

Aesthetically, it was somewhere between functional and lackluster, with a large tub/shower, all in white, hidden behind a mirrored door; the sink and vanity are in the room. But the rain shower’s water pressure was bliss (if not environmentally friendly) and the extra-large bath towels were luxurious.

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Hotel Review: Posada del León de Oro in Madrid
Hotel Review: Posada del León de Oro in Madrid

With nearly blinding white walls adorned with purple lacquered panels and too many state-of-the-art light fixtures, my room, called a superior, felt as if it were trying too hard to escape its past. But it was comfortable, with a separate alcove for



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Five-hour tantric sex with Sting and how I'll save the world with gluten-free ...

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